No-Pinch Crops
Since the early 1990’s we have been trialing no-pinch production as part of our fall Fast Crops. For Fast Crops we plant one cutting per 6" pot and two cuttings per 8" pot in mid to late July and then just feed the plants -- no pinch, no Florel, just a good fertilizer program. We found it was easy to produce high quality plants with a later plant date (and shorter crop time) and no labor for pinching – a real cost saver! When the plants were looked at closely, you would find that every node on the original cutting had produced a lateral. If every node produces a branch, why do you need to pinch and/or how will Florel improve branching?
In 2000 and 2001, we took that same no-pinch concept and applied it to our traditional crops that are planted in June. We did side-by-side plantings of the same variety with a pinch and without. From California to South Carolina and from southern Canada to southern Florida we saw little if any difference between the two treatments. All plants were full and bushy and if there was a difference to be seen, the no-pinch plants were a bit taller and/or a few days faster into flower.
Based on our results, we no longer pinch garden mums (or asters for that matter) in any of our fall trials. This will ensure that all of our new varieties will perform even better than the existing varieties in no-pinch programs.
This works for every garden mum variety that we’ve produced, so no variety list is needed. As with all new practices or procedures, we suggest you trial this method first before making a complete change to your standard production methods.
NO-PINCH PLANT DATES
Container
|
RC/pot
|
Plant Date
|
Approx. Spacing
|
8" x 5" pan
|
1
|
June 5 -
June 25
|
18" x 18" to
24" x 24"
|
8" x 5" pan
|
2
|
June 25 -
July 25
|
18" x 18" to
24" x 24"
|
12" to 16" pots
|
3 to 4
|
June 20 -
July 15
|
20" x 20" to
30" x 30"
|
6" or 6.5" pot
|
1
|
July 15 -
July 31
|
12" x 12" to
18" x 18"
|
4" pot*
|
1
|
July 25 -
August 10
|
8" x 8" to
12" x 12"
|
*B-Nine often required
Frequently Asked Questions on No-Pinch Crops
When should I plant No-Pinch Garden Mums?
In general, for crops in the Northeast, Midwest and Mid-Atlantic states, plant 1 rooted cutting for an 8" x 5" pan mid- to late June. Plant 3 to 4 rooted cuttings in 12" to 16" containers (bowls, bushel baskets, etc.) in early to mid-July. And 4" and 6" fast crops with 1 rooted cutting can be planted mid- to late July. Plant 2 weeks later than the above schedules in southern regions.
I plant my garden mums in May. Will this program work for me?
We have trialed plantings from mid-May through July. The May plantings do not flower uniformly, and often result in premature budding because night temperatures are still too cold in May. Planting later shortens overall crop time, which allows for greater efficiencies and profitability in your crop. It is far better to plant after June 10 when warmer temperatures normally exist.
What growth regulators do I need to use?
We do not use any growth regulators (B-N ine, Florel, etc.) in our trials. While no Florel is needed, some growers find the need to use growth retardants toward the end of the crop to prevent their plants from getting too big. If you have done this with your pinched crops, you will most likely need to do this with a No-Pinch crop.
How much fertilizer should I use?
We recommend a constant liquid fertilization program with a minimum of 300 to 400 ppm N from a complete N-P-K fertilizer. This fertilizer program should begin at the time of planting and continue on a constant basis through the development of secondary shoot growth (see details under Fertilization above). We have not trialed this program using controlled-release fertilizers (e.g., Nutricote, Osmocote, etc.).
Should I do my entire crop as No-Pinch?
Our trials have been extremely successful and consistent and many growers have reported success as well, so we know this works. However, with any new practice, we recommend that you trial it before adopting it as standard practice.
I grow my crops where the humidity is very low. Will No-Pinch work for me?
Based on what we have seen with growers in very dry areas of the country, the low humidity conditions reduce the ability of the cuttings to branch freely. A single pinch would still be suggested in these areas.
Can I use a No-Pinch program for my black-cloth crops?
We have looked at No-Pinch black-cloth crops on a limited basis. Some varieties appear to work while others grow too upright before branching. You may want to trial this concept with your summer black-cloth crops.